July 2016 "Websters Chalk Paint" Lecture/Demo Schedule

Since we're all extremely busy in the summer, but still want to learn chalk painting, we've decided to offer one hour "Websters Chalk Paint" Lecture/Demo's instead of the  3 hour painting workshops.

In the Lecture/Demo, you will relax and watch how easy and economical it is to use "Websters Chalk Paint Powder", to transform your previously loved furniture and home décor.

We will cover all the steps - from prep to finishing. When you leave, you will be able to go home and do it yourself.

Fee: $20    (Nothing to bring)

Lecture Dates:

Wednesday, July 6th  6:30 pm - 7:30 pm
Saturday, July 9th  10:00 am - 11:00 am
Thursday, July 21st  6:30 pm - 7:30 pm
Sunday, July 31st  noon - 1:00 pm


Call and reserve your spot today.  (952) 432-5001
Payment required at time of registration.

Its been awhile

Hi,

It's been a while since I've blogged. I can tell you it's not from sitting around and being lazy.

In the past 6 months, Next Act has more than doubled in business. I can remember when Nancy and I would paint a few pieces each week and the couple of vendors we had would bring in a few. That was the norm. Now.... we are up to over 30 in our "Creative Team" and the word couple and few, no longer is the case. It is a non-stop process to keep the floor as full as possible.

Each week we sell over 30 pieces of furniture, this does not include home décor and accessories. I post photos on Wednesday, after we spend hour of re-arranging and staging. It's a skill to fit it all in and have it be tastefully displayed. (the phrase, 10lbs of stuff in a 2lb bag). The Facebook post shows the new arrivals and a basic overview of some of the sections.

We open on Thursday morning and the phones are ringing and our post is filled with questions on pricing and dimensions etc. I like to tease Nancy by saying, "Operators are standing by to take your order". There are weeks that one of us spends the entire morning on the phone selling pieces.

Our hours are Thursday through Saturday  10:00 - 5:00  and Sunday Noon - 4:00. during this time, we post to FB all the pieces that are sold. If you're in doubt of how fast things move, watch the post.

I am still teaching classes but am winding down on the number offered. I will be doing more lecture/demos starting in July. These days, everyone wants to learn but finding the 3 hours is not easy. The lecture is one hour and you will relax while you learn the basics of chalk painting and the finishing techniques.

I better go for now, we open in 45 minutes and I have things to get done. My next post will hopefully have a few pics of some projects. I just got Windows 10 and have not mastered the photo download or much else... why did they get rid of Windows 7 ???????????????????

Later,
Patti

May & June 2016 Websters Chalk Paint Workshop Schedule

May & June 2016

"Websters Chalk Paint" Workshop Schedule

Introduction to "Websters Chalk Paint".   In our 3 hour workshop, you will learn how to transform your furniture and home decor the fast, easy and economical way. We will cover all the steps and techniques, from prep to finishing.

Bring a small project (examples: Large picture frame, childs stool or small wooden tray. We will discuss your project at the time of sign up)  and a sample size (1 cup) of flat latex paint. We recommend a sample size of Behr paint, you can get it at Home Depot for under $3.00. If you bring in a quart, please bring in a jar with a lid to mix your paint in. All other supplies will be provided to finish your project in class. Fee: $45 payable at time of registration.

Workshop Dates:

Saturday, May 7th     10:30 AM - 1:00 PM
Sunday, May 15th     Noon - 2:30 PM
Wednesday, May 18th     6:00 PM - 8:30 PM
Thursday, May 26th    6:00 PM - 8:30 PM
Wednesday, June 1st    6:00 PM - 8:30 PM
Thursday, June 9th    6:00 PM - 8:30 PM
Sunday, June 12th    1:00 PM - 3:30 PM
Wednesday, June 22nd    6:00 PM - 8:30 PM

All Day "Websters Chalk Paint Workshop"   In this workshop, you will learn the same as in our "Introduction Workshop", the difference is you will have 6 hours of painting time to complete a larger piece of furniture. (Example: coffee table, end table, night stand or chair). We will discuss your piece at time of registration.  You will need to bring 1 - 2 sample sizes of the same color Behr paint. All other supplies will be provided to finish your project in class. Lunch is included. Fee: $75 payable at time of registration.  

Workshop Date: 

Saturday, May 14th   10:00 AM - 4:00 PM
Saturday, June 11th   10:00 AM - 4:00 PM


Registration is required to reserve your space in the workshop. Payment at the time of registration is required. No refunds on fees, if you have to cancel - you can reschedule for a later workshop.

Private Parties are always welcomed. Choose a date and time that works for you and your group (3 or more) and we'll schedule it. It's always fun to spend time with friends, chatting, laughing and learning a new craft.

 




 

Polyurethane vs Waxing

During our workshops and lectures, the subject of when to use polyurethane instead of waxing and what my opinion is on the two products, is discussed.

As with all of my tips, they are MY opinion and preference. Everyone has their own idea of what they like best and what works for them. With that said....

*  Polyurethane is a liquid that is brushed on top of the paint. When you're using Chalk Paint, it is absorbed into the paint and hardens the surface when dry.

*  Wax is rubbed or brushed into the surface of the paint, is absorbed - wiped off and then cures the paint over a 30 day period to a hard finish. (waxed pieces can be used immediately - but gently)

Polyurethane comes in Brush On or Wipe On. The finish choices are Matte, Satin or Gloss. For me, if I use it, I like Brush On - Satin finish. 

Now, what is the difference in the Poly and the Wax? In my opinion, wax is the best for getting a nice soft finish. You can rub the wax into the chalky surface of your paint and lightly wipe it off, producing a traditional matte finish that is associated with a vintage piece or buff and get a slight sheen.

With Polyurethane, you get a hard surface but get more of a shine. Depending on the color of your paint, it can be streaky and blotchy. Using Poly on dark colors, like Black and Navy are two of the colors you will experience the streaks. If you're working with Creams and Antique Whites, the finish is even and streak free.

If doing the top of a table that you're going to use daily - and have children, I would probably use the Polyurethane. Several coats will make it durable enough to withstand the wear and tear of toys, color crayons and meal time. Wax is durable, but in this case I would not depend on it to withstand the use.

Three posts ago, I gave you a tip about using Fiddes Wax and mineral spirits. That is my finish of choice. I use it on almost every piece I paint.

To see what you prefer, try each on a small project. That'll give you an idea of how they differ. 

It's been a trial and error for me to figure out what works best. Each piece has a need for a certain finish. You first have to decide how much it'll be used and decide on what look you prefer.

I hope this has been helpful.  

Paint on...

Patti

Transform old Hardware

This is a great little tip for those of us who don't want to spend the money on new Hardware.

We often find dressers and lovely pieces, but they're either missing some hardware, or it's just plain outdated and ugly.

When you go to replace the hardware on older pieces, you often find that it's going to cost as much or more than you paid for your "Goodwill" find and the new sizes don't work. The screw holes of your older piece is 2 3/4" and the newer hardware has 3" - 3 1/2" holes. That means you would need to fill the older holes and re-drill. The problem is often that when you drill into the filler - it chips or falls out. Also, this is a lot of added work.

I have found two lines of spray paint that I truly love. Rustoleum and Krylon. With these paints, you can change that old hardware in a few minutes and refresh you're entire look.

Out of the two (remember this is MY opinion) I prefer Krylon. Both adhere well to metal hardware, they're durable and come in a selection of colors. Krylon has many more colors and styles. I like the metallic shades of Krylon.

Prices are comparable, Rustoleum is around $3.50   Krylon roughly $5.50. I feel that you get better coverage with the Krylon, so the product goes further.

Preparation before you paint:  Clean old hardware with soap and a stiff toothbrush. Get all the grime off that has been building up for years. Wipe dry, I then take a piece of sandpaper and gently rub it over the handles. Not hard enough to put deep scratches in the finish, just enough to make it a bit less shiny. Then I wipe it down again to remove the sanding dust and let it sit a while to be sure it is completely moisture free.

When you spray the pieces, do it in even light coats. If you put it on to heavy, it'll run and you'll lose the smooth finish. Let it dry completely between coats - to soon and it will remain sticky and tacky.

At this point, you can choose to use the hardware as is or put a top coat of clear on. I like to use a matte or satin finish on both. I often don't use the top coat, it depends on the hardware. If you chose to do a top coat... again light coats.

Hope this helps with that "Ugly" hardware problem. It's amazing how a little coat of paint can transform a brassy looking piece into a classy-chic adornment for your decor.

Smooth, Silky Finish

Our quick and easy tip for today is:  Achieving a Smooth Silky Finish.

Supplies:
Sand Paper - Medium grit (120)
Sanding Block - fine grit 
Water
Brush
Paint
Baby Wipes

This is a simple easy to do method, and makes a big difference.

The smoother your paint finish, the nicer it will look when waxed.

First there's the finish on the project you're about to paint. If it's rough and worn, sand it to smooth out as much of the texture as possible. Sometimes this isn't easy, the old varnish has gotten that "Alligator" texture or there's chunks and major impressions in the finish. In order to get it really smooth, you may need to strip it. That is not an area that I don't know a lot about. We try not to purchase pieces that require stripping. To be honest, this is re-purposed furniture. Part of it's charm is the fact that it's been redone. 

Start by taking some sandpaper or a sanding block in a medium grit and try to remove as much of the old rough finish as possible. When you've got it to where you're comfortable with the smoothness, wipe it down with some baby wipes. You'll want to remove all the sanding dust before you start to paint.

Application of the paint can also make a big difference in the finished look. Long strokes, not short choppy ones. On my final coat of paint, I like to dip the "tips" of my brush into some water and let the wetness smooth out some of the lines. Once you've painted your piece and if desired - distressed it. Wipe it down again with the wipes. Let the moisture from the wipe dry. Run your hand over the paint, is it as smooth as you want?

If it's as smooth as you want, you can just apply your wax and finish up. If not, take your sanding block in the fine grit and gently rub it over your paint. You don't want to remove too much paint, the point is to just remove some of the brush lines and any other imperfections. Do this all over the piece until you have a nice smooth surface. When done, wipe with the baby wipes to remove all the sanding again, let the moisture dry and you're ready to apply your wax.

If at all possible, I like to wait until the next day to apply my wax. That allows time for all the moisture to evaporate from your paint layers. If you don't have the time to wait, put a fan on the piece for a little while.

Hope this helps, as always - call or come in if you have questions or a problem. We'll do our best to get you the answer.

Patti

Fiddes & Sons Wax & Mineral Spirits

I have found that for the most part, I don't like many finishing techniques that I have tried. From Polyurethane to the numerous waxes available, I'm not totally sold on them.

With the Poly's, you have Satin or Matte finish. They come in brush on or wipe on. As for the waxes, there's soft wax or hard. You also have antiquing or glazing. Which one is the most durable, easiest to use and gives the traditional "Chalk Painted Furniture Look"?  Well, for the past year it's been  pretty much a trial and error situation.

Keeping in mind, this is MY opinion. You can try my suggestion and see how you feel about it, who know's maybe it'll be the answer you've been looking for.

I have tried all the poly's and waxes I could find. We started carrying "Fiddes & Sons" when we decided to become a distributor for Websters Chalk Paint Powder. It's the wax that the girls at Websters suggest for use with their product. I must admit at first I was not impressed with it. When used directly out of the can, the finish is generally streaky and blotchy. No matter what I tried, it was never (in my opinion) - easy to use or gave a quality finish. That was before I found a fantastic tip from a fellow distributor of "Fiddes & Sons".  Her secret was "Mineral Spirits".

The suggestion was to add the mineral spirits to the wax. The dissolved wax was then applied with a cloth, wiped into the painted surface and quickly wiped off.  It sounded easy so I gave it a try... being very skeptical. It was wonderful!!!! I fell in love with "Fiddes & Sons" and am now excited to teach the technique in our workshops and share it with you.

SUPPLIES:  "Fiddes & Sons" wax in Clear. (Ruggers Brown for antiquing)
Mineral Spirits - odorless if possible.
Microfiber cloth
Jar

I use the jar to mix the wax in small batches. Start with a few large spoonfuls of wax and add enough mineral spirits to make your mixture soupy. You don't want it to be runny thin, just dissolved enough to be spreadable. If you have some lumps, don't worry, they rub into the  paint.

I suggest Microfiber cloths because they don't leave any lint or fibers on your paint. If you're working with a piece that has been painted black, you don't want little fibers in your finish. I did find some disposable cloths at Home Depot. They work great and you don't have to worry about washing your cloths.

You apply the wax mixture "lightly. Put a small amount - maybe the size of a quarter on the cloth. Massage it into the painted surface. Really push it back and forth into the paint. Since the chalk paint is porous, it will absorb the wax. Wipe off the area immediately. Don't let it sit for long. Do this to you're entire project.

If you are planning to antique your piece with the Ruggers Brown wax, apply the clear coat first. Then the dark wax will glide on and off leaving you the soft antiqued look.

I hope this will help anyone who has problems with their finishes. I am really pleased with this technique and like the way it gives a soft patina to my pieces. Keep in mind, you're finish will still be curing for approximately 30 days. You can use it but be gentle.

Happy Painting,

Patti

Quick & Easy Distressing Tip

This tip has saved me a lot of time and made distressing a breeze.

Supplies:   Sandpaper #80 or #120 Grit  and Baby Wipes (not cleaning wipes)

This step is done after you've applied your paint and it's fully dried. If possible I like to wait til the next day.

Distressing is a personal preference. I like to distress mostly around the edges and any relief carvings,
Depending on the number of coats of paint you've applied, ease of distressing will vary. The grit of the sandpaper will help make this stage easier. FYI, the number of the sandpaper determines how fast it will remove the paint. The smaller the number - the coarser the grit - the faster the paint comes off. 

I generally use #120, it removes gently, so I don't take off too much. If I want to remove it faster and a larger area, I go for the #80. This is where the baby wipes come in handy. If you take the baby wipe and gently wipe the surface, it dampens the paint. When the paint is damp, it comes off VERY easily. At this point I don't apply a lot of pressure, the paint comes off with very little effort.

After you've done your distressing, take a clean baby wipe and go over your entire piece. This will show you exactly what your project will look like when you wax or poly it. Before putting the finish on, give the paint a little time to completely dry from the baby wipe.

Happy transforming,
Patti

** All the tips I share are for use with "Websters Chalk Paint Powder".

Dealing with Bleed Through

What is Bleed Through?

Bleed through is that pinkish or golden color oozing up in spots through your newly applied paint. Usually, you will only notice this when painting lighter colors over darker wood. Mahogany and Cherry are notorious for this.

Bleed is caused from the old varnish/stain being worn or roughed up prior to painting. The moisture from the new paint brings up the discoloration.

When this happens, no amount of paint will stop it, you have to seal it. I thought that if I just let the first coat of paint dry and put on a second coat, it would cover it. No, it will just keep seeping up. There are many products on the market to correct the problem. I have my own favorites, Kilz and Polyurethane.  These are my go to products. They are inexpensive and can be found at most Hardware stores. Simply brush on two coats,waiting between coats til dry. Then apply another coat of paint and wait til it dries. Check to see if you see any of the bleed. Generally, two coats of Kilz or the Poly fix the problem. If for some reason you do see the bleed, sand it down and re-apply the sealer. Then start painting again.

I do a test on all finishes that I think may be a problem. I find a really worn spot and paint it. Wait til it's dry and see if it bleeds. If it doesn't I go ahead with the coats of paint. This little test has saved me a lot of frustration and wasted time.

I hope this tip helps you. If you do have any questions or a situation you would like to talk about, give me a call. I'm always glad to help make your transformation experience - fun.

Patti.

Time really does fly.

Plans are in the works for our 1 year Anniversary. Does that seem possible... open a year already?

Nancy and I wanted to do a blog that would be a past to present photo album of the pieces that have passed from our door to yours. We pulled up the different albums that we had and realized just exactly what that meant. It wouldn't be possible to post every table, chair, hutch and misc piece.  There are hundreds and hundreds of pieces. Just one example, I tried to count all the end tables that have sold, 93 and that's what I had photos of. Chest of Drawers - 86, Chairs - 114 and that's when I decided this was not going to be possible to share.

When we looked back at the photo's, we actually had some pieces we had totally forgotten. The pictures of what the shop looked like when we first got the place - hard to ever remember it looking like that. When we first moved in, Kevin and Jeff unloaded a 26' Uhaul with our unpainted collection of things. Nancy and I thought we had enough furniture to last us forever. We didn't have a clue at that point. 

 This is the first photo I took of one of the sides, before they blocked the walls into the old gift shop.

 These photos are of the first load of furniture we had accumulated. We thought it was going to last us a long time. Our worry was - could we get it painted in time to open.

 Our first thing was  get the painters in to patch and paint the walls and then decide on what would go where. Basically, two women with paint and really no idea of what was to come. A one year lease and two husbands willing to help when they could. What were we thinking????

Wednesday, October 16th,  5:00 PM - 9:00 PM  we will be having our 1 year Anniversary party. We hope you'll save the date and come share our celebration with us. I'll be posting more information as we get closer. Some fun things being planned, great door prizes and giveaways plus yummy refreshments. 

We made it this far because of our wonderful customers and friends.... 
Thank you just doesn't seem like enough.

Create,
Patti