Transform old Hardware

This is a great little tip for those of us who don't want to spend the money on new Hardware.

We often find dressers and lovely pieces, but they're either missing some hardware, or it's just plain outdated and ugly.

When you go to replace the hardware on older pieces, you often find that it's going to cost as much or more than you paid for your "Goodwill" find and the new sizes don't work. The screw holes of your older piece is 2 3/4" and the newer hardware has 3" - 3 1/2" holes. That means you would need to fill the older holes and re-drill. The problem is often that when you drill into the filler - it chips or falls out. Also, this is a lot of added work.

I have found two lines of spray paint that I truly love. Rustoleum and Krylon. With these paints, you can change that old hardware in a few minutes and refresh you're entire look.

Out of the two (remember this is MY opinion) I prefer Krylon. Both adhere well to metal hardware, they're durable and come in a selection of colors. Krylon has many more colors and styles. I like the metallic shades of Krylon.

Prices are comparable, Rustoleum is around $3.50   Krylon roughly $5.50. I feel that you get better coverage with the Krylon, so the product goes further.

Preparation before you paint:  Clean old hardware with soap and a stiff toothbrush. Get all the grime off that has been building up for years. Wipe dry, I then take a piece of sandpaper and gently rub it over the handles. Not hard enough to put deep scratches in the finish, just enough to make it a bit less shiny. Then I wipe it down again to remove the sanding dust and let it sit a while to be sure it is completely moisture free.

When you spray the pieces, do it in even light coats. If you put it on to heavy, it'll run and you'll lose the smooth finish. Let it dry completely between coats - to soon and it will remain sticky and tacky.

At this point, you can choose to use the hardware as is or put a top coat of clear on. I like to use a matte or satin finish on both. I often don't use the top coat, it depends on the hardware. If you chose to do a top coat... again light coats.

Hope this helps with that "Ugly" hardware problem. It's amazing how a little coat of paint can transform a brassy looking piece into a classy-chic adornment for your decor.

Smooth, Silky Finish

Our quick and easy tip for today is:  Achieving a Smooth Silky Finish.

Supplies:
Sand Paper - Medium grit (120)
Sanding Block - fine grit 
Water
Brush
Paint
Baby Wipes

This is a simple easy to do method, and makes a big difference.

The smoother your paint finish, the nicer it will look when waxed.

First there's the finish on the project you're about to paint. If it's rough and worn, sand it to smooth out as much of the texture as possible. Sometimes this isn't easy, the old varnish has gotten that "Alligator" texture or there's chunks and major impressions in the finish. In order to get it really smooth, you may need to strip it. That is not an area that I don't know a lot about. We try not to purchase pieces that require stripping. To be honest, this is re-purposed furniture. Part of it's charm is the fact that it's been redone. 

Start by taking some sandpaper or a sanding block in a medium grit and try to remove as much of the old rough finish as possible. When you've got it to where you're comfortable with the smoothness, wipe it down with some baby wipes. You'll want to remove all the sanding dust before you start to paint.

Application of the paint can also make a big difference in the finished look. Long strokes, not short choppy ones. On my final coat of paint, I like to dip the "tips" of my brush into some water and let the wetness smooth out some of the lines. Once you've painted your piece and if desired - distressed it. Wipe it down again with the wipes. Let the moisture from the wipe dry. Run your hand over the paint, is it as smooth as you want?

If it's as smooth as you want, you can just apply your wax and finish up. If not, take your sanding block in the fine grit and gently rub it over your paint. You don't want to remove too much paint, the point is to just remove some of the brush lines and any other imperfections. Do this all over the piece until you have a nice smooth surface. When done, wipe with the baby wipes to remove all the sanding again, let the moisture dry and you're ready to apply your wax.

If at all possible, I like to wait until the next day to apply my wax. That allows time for all the moisture to evaporate from your paint layers. If you don't have the time to wait, put a fan on the piece for a little while.

Hope this helps, as always - call or come in if you have questions or a problem. We'll do our best to get you the answer.

Patti

Fiddes & Sons Wax & Mineral Spirits

I have found that for the most part, I don't like many finishing techniques that I have tried. From Polyurethane to the numerous waxes available, I'm not totally sold on them.

With the Poly's, you have Satin or Matte finish. They come in brush on or wipe on. As for the waxes, there's soft wax or hard. You also have antiquing or glazing. Which one is the most durable, easiest to use and gives the traditional "Chalk Painted Furniture Look"?  Well, for the past year it's been  pretty much a trial and error situation.

Keeping in mind, this is MY opinion. You can try my suggestion and see how you feel about it, who know's maybe it'll be the answer you've been looking for.

I have tried all the poly's and waxes I could find. We started carrying "Fiddes & Sons" when we decided to become a distributor for Websters Chalk Paint Powder. It's the wax that the girls at Websters suggest for use with their product. I must admit at first I was not impressed with it. When used directly out of the can, the finish is generally streaky and blotchy. No matter what I tried, it was never (in my opinion) - easy to use or gave a quality finish. That was before I found a fantastic tip from a fellow distributor of "Fiddes & Sons".  Her secret was "Mineral Spirits".

The suggestion was to add the mineral spirits to the wax. The dissolved wax was then applied with a cloth, wiped into the painted surface and quickly wiped off.  It sounded easy so I gave it a try... being very skeptical. It was wonderful!!!! I fell in love with "Fiddes & Sons" and am now excited to teach the technique in our workshops and share it with you.

SUPPLIES:  "Fiddes & Sons" wax in Clear. (Ruggers Brown for antiquing)
Mineral Spirits - odorless if possible.
Microfiber cloth
Jar

I use the jar to mix the wax in small batches. Start with a few large spoonfuls of wax and add enough mineral spirits to make your mixture soupy. You don't want it to be runny thin, just dissolved enough to be spreadable. If you have some lumps, don't worry, they rub into the  paint.

I suggest Microfiber cloths because they don't leave any lint or fibers on your paint. If you're working with a piece that has been painted black, you don't want little fibers in your finish. I did find some disposable cloths at Home Depot. They work great and you don't have to worry about washing your cloths.

You apply the wax mixture "lightly. Put a small amount - maybe the size of a quarter on the cloth. Massage it into the painted surface. Really push it back and forth into the paint. Since the chalk paint is porous, it will absorb the wax. Wipe off the area immediately. Don't let it sit for long. Do this to you're entire project.

If you are planning to antique your piece with the Ruggers Brown wax, apply the clear coat first. Then the dark wax will glide on and off leaving you the soft antiqued look.

I hope this will help anyone who has problems with their finishes. I am really pleased with this technique and like the way it gives a soft patina to my pieces. Keep in mind, you're finish will still be curing for approximately 30 days. You can use it but be gentle.

Happy Painting,

Patti

Quick & Easy Distressing Tip

This tip has saved me a lot of time and made distressing a breeze.

Supplies:   Sandpaper #80 or #120 Grit  and Baby Wipes (not cleaning wipes)

This step is done after you've applied your paint and it's fully dried. If possible I like to wait til the next day.

Distressing is a personal preference. I like to distress mostly around the edges and any relief carvings,
Depending on the number of coats of paint you've applied, ease of distressing will vary. The grit of the sandpaper will help make this stage easier. FYI, the number of the sandpaper determines how fast it will remove the paint. The smaller the number - the coarser the grit - the faster the paint comes off. 

I generally use #120, it removes gently, so I don't take off too much. If I want to remove it faster and a larger area, I go for the #80. This is where the baby wipes come in handy. If you take the baby wipe and gently wipe the surface, it dampens the paint. When the paint is damp, it comes off VERY easily. At this point I don't apply a lot of pressure, the paint comes off with very little effort.

After you've done your distressing, take a clean baby wipe and go over your entire piece. This will show you exactly what your project will look like when you wax or poly it. Before putting the finish on, give the paint a little time to completely dry from the baby wipe.

Happy transforming,
Patti

** All the tips I share are for use with "Websters Chalk Paint Powder".