Fiddes & Sons Wax & Mineral Spirits

I have found that for the most part, I don't like many finishing techniques that I have tried. From Polyurethane to the numerous waxes available, I'm not totally sold on them.

With the Poly's, you have Satin or Matte finish. They come in brush on or wipe on. As for the waxes, there's soft wax or hard. You also have antiquing or glazing. Which one is the most durable, easiest to use and gives the traditional "Chalk Painted Furniture Look"?  Well, for the past year it's been  pretty much a trial and error situation.

Keeping in mind, this is MY opinion. You can try my suggestion and see how you feel about it, who know's maybe it'll be the answer you've been looking for.

I have tried all the poly's and waxes I could find. We started carrying "Fiddes & Sons" when we decided to become a distributor for Websters Chalk Paint Powder. It's the wax that the girls at Websters suggest for use with their product. I must admit at first I was not impressed with it. When used directly out of the can, the finish is generally streaky and blotchy. No matter what I tried, it was never (in my opinion) - easy to use or gave a quality finish. That was before I found a fantastic tip from a fellow distributor of "Fiddes & Sons".  Her secret was "Mineral Spirits".

The suggestion was to add the mineral spirits to the wax. The dissolved wax was then applied with a cloth, wiped into the painted surface and quickly wiped off.  It sounded easy so I gave it a try... being very skeptical. It was wonderful!!!! I fell in love with "Fiddes & Sons" and am now excited to teach the technique in our workshops and share it with you.

SUPPLIES:  "Fiddes & Sons" wax in Clear. (Ruggers Brown for antiquing)
Mineral Spirits - odorless if possible.
Microfiber cloth
Jar

I use the jar to mix the wax in small batches. Start with a few large spoonfuls of wax and add enough mineral spirits to make your mixture soupy. You don't want it to be runny thin, just dissolved enough to be spreadable. If you have some lumps, don't worry, they rub into the  paint.

I suggest Microfiber cloths because they don't leave any lint or fibers on your paint. If you're working with a piece that has been painted black, you don't want little fibers in your finish. I did find some disposable cloths at Home Depot. They work great and you don't have to worry about washing your cloths.

You apply the wax mixture "lightly. Put a small amount - maybe the size of a quarter on the cloth. Massage it into the painted surface. Really push it back and forth into the paint. Since the chalk paint is porous, it will absorb the wax. Wipe off the area immediately. Don't let it sit for long. Do this to you're entire project.

If you are planning to antique your piece with the Ruggers Brown wax, apply the clear coat first. Then the dark wax will glide on and off leaving you the soft antiqued look.

I hope this will help anyone who has problems with their finishes. I am really pleased with this technique and like the way it gives a soft patina to my pieces. Keep in mind, you're finish will still be curing for approximately 30 days. You can use it but be gentle.

Happy Painting,

Patti